One thing about learning how to surf is to realise when it’s the right time to stand up. Timing seem essential. I guess music and surfing has more than passion and joy in common. Another thing is to place the feet right, which didn’t come naturally. For me it felt more natural to have my toes pointing toward the front of the board. This results in less balance and more falling into the water. The instructor, Davide, was nice, calm and patient. He encouraged me, pushed my board, so I could get more speed and get up.
When I finally got up, I realised that I’ve never thought about the logic of standing on a board just moving with the power of water
When I finally got up, I realised that I’ve never thought about the logic of standing on a board just moving with the power of water. To me, surprisingly, it made absolutely no sense. I fell, half on purpose, because I can’t do something that I don’t think is possible. That’s how life works and also surfing. You have to believe something is possible, to achieve it. After many tries and falls, I finally stood up a little, for a short while. I felt like a one year old as I looked back at the others “Look, look! I can stand!”
I’m still proud because I did it, I barely stood up, but I did take the step to try. Despite all the falling I was embraced with a feeling of peace and happiness. It doesn’t matter how many times I fall. I know I’m going to get there one day. It’s a pleasure even just sitting waiting on the wave and listening to the sound of the water hitting against the board. In that moment, there’s no more thoughts in the world. I felt excited when a wave was coming and maybe that time, I would make it and if I didn’t, that was ok too, because there’ll always be another one.
Theodor Roosvelt said in his speech in Sorbonne, Paris, 1910:
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.
I will continue to fall and fail, but I will also continue to dare greatly and who knows, maybe I’ll even succeed…
To find out more about Lovisa visit www.lovisastahl.com