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Greg Long big wave surfing

Greg Long was introduced to the surf by his father who was a lifeguard

Greg Long is one of the most down to earth and decorated big wave surfers in the sport today. With a unique philosophy on his preparation for big wave adventure combined with an incredible ability to surf at the highest levels (while managing a number of wildly dynamic variables), Into the mind of Greg Long dives deep into Greg’s approach and showcases some jaw dropping archival big wave footage of Greg ever seen.

The film was directed by Patrick Trefz and has recently won the Golden Gate Award in the San Francisco Ocean Film Festival

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Greg Long Wikipedia

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