EDITIONS

North American | European

Flitting between awesome waves at Aileens and Nelscott Reef is all in a week's work for Ireland's big-wave master Al Mennie. Words: Al Mennie Photos: Al Mennie, Gary McCall, Larry Jansky, Richard Hallman

They're trained to defend their country and protect our freedom and liberty, but when active service is over, many soldiers find themselves struggling with personal and mental problems that the army just doesn't want to know about. Could surfing provide some answers? Words & photos: Russ Pierre

One of the great things about surfing in this current era is the wide acceptance of different board designs. Over the last 10 years, it has become acceptable to pretty much ride anything from surfmat to singlefin, fish to longboard. Words: Chris Preston Photo (2): Dan Crockett

The Mentawais have given a lot to surfers; now it's time to give something back. Kate and Luke Gerson celebrate the beauty of these islands and highlight the continued need for aid following the recent earthquake.

In early 2008, longtime buddies Billy Hume, Jeff Myers, Joey Carter and Ben McBrien got together for a trip off the beaten track trip in search of waves and adventure. They headed for the icy waters of Alaska... Words: Jeff Myers Photos: Nick LaVecchia

Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, Tracks, and director of 'Morning of the Earth', Alby Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Courtesy of Alby Falzon

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Surfing portraits

July 20, 2009 | Words By: chris stevens

spray-by-chris-stevensTo say that the beach and surf culture have influenced my photography would be a massive understatement.

The majority of my university work focused on the world within surfing and I’m constantly striving to capture the essence of the culture that we’re involved in – whether you’re a local, weekend warrior or simply a surf ‘widow’ (as my girlfriend calls it) the world of surfing is unique, and there’s something about it that keeps us all coming back for more.

My surf photography has taken me to some extraordinary places and I’ve met some wonderful people along the way.

Drift have invited me to blog my trips, general surfing banter, thoughts and pictures – so hopefully I can bring you some tasty treats to keep you all going while you’res tuck in the office and show you that the internet has more to offer than Facebook…

I’m working on a body of surfing portraits at the moment to highlight the broad range of people in the line-up, so if you get approached in the car park post-surf make sure you smile – unless its glassy and firing then I’ll see you out there (look out for the curly haired longboarder on the balsa single fin).

www.cstevensphotography.com

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I took this shot back when I was in college, bunking lectures, throwing the tent in the boot and heading to the coast with my friends at the slightest wiff of swell. Stood on the dunes post-surf and with a glorious sunset silhouetting my half-cut friend I think this epitomises that point in my life. A little touch of photoshop adds a bit more flavour!

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