Every month Drift will be bringing you up-and-coming talent from around the globe. This month 17-year-old Lucie Rose Donlan from Cornwall…
Where are you from?
I am from Cornwall in the UK and currently living in Newquay.
What do you love about surfing?
I love how surfing has changed my life and introduced me to my future. I love the people that I meet (and have yet to meet), the companies I work with and the whole lifestyle that goes with living near the sea. From a physical point of view, surfing keeps me active. Mentally it relieves stress, keeps me motivated, enthusiastic and most importantly makes me happy!
What’s in your quiver?
All my boards are from Adams Surfboards and the first board in my quiver is the Little Donkey which is pretty good for small waves as it hasn’t got much rocker and is short and wide. I also have a 5’7 Tonka which is a good ‘all rounder’ that suits all conditions. The last board in my quiver is The Option, which is a mix of The Tonka and The Donkey. This is my favourite board as it suits the bigger waves and gives me a bit of extra speed.
My dad and sister both longboard so when the surf is small and clean I quite often pinch one of their boards for a bit of logging!
Where’s your favourite place to surf in the UK?
Ah so many great places to surf here, but as much as I love the Cornish beaches, especially Watergate and Fistral, I visited Scotland last year with the UK Pro Surf Tour and got the chance to surf Thurso East, which was cool, but if you gave me a choice of the conditions being pretty much perfect anywhere, I would choose an uncrowded Watergate, high tide and sunny!
What did the word adventure mean to you when you were small, and what do you think of now?
When I was little an adventure would probably mean packing up a bit of lunch, spending the day in the woods climbing trees and making dens.
Now an adventure would mean turning up at the airport, deciding where to go when I got there and hopping on a plane – no planning, no organising, just doing and going!
What in life gets your adrenaline pumping?
Massive sets, black ski runs and loud music!
Where would be your dream surf trip location to travel to?
I think it would have to be the Maldives, staying on a boat and literally having the surf right there when you wanted it – no effort, just jump off the side and paddle out.
Do you do any training out of the water?
With college commitments I have found it quite difficult to get in some quality training time, but now that I’m in the last couple of months of my course I have just started specific surf training with Ocean Core Fitness. I also needed to get in shape for a trip that I have coming up in February and after chatting to Ross at Ocean Core he is confident that he can get me in shape with a block of sessions. Currently we are training three times a week up until I leave with a mixture of cardio, weight training and circuits based in the gym and on the beach. I’m already feeling the benefits!
Who do you look up to the most? Does anyone outside the surfing world also inspire you?
In the surfing world it would probably be Ellie Jean and Hollie Daze Coffey. I know they are pretty “girly” but I love the glamour they bring to girls surfing and aren’t afraid to be themselves as they know they rip and can get away with it!
Outside the surfing world I am inspired by people who are brave enough not to be stuck doing a job they hate, but are willing to take a chance and spend their time travelling, being active and enjoying a minimalistic lifestyle.
What’s your biggest goal?
My biggest goal in life is to be in a position where I have time to myself to be able to do all the things I love, not have to be committed to a daily routine, no stresses from anyone and just to be able to take each day as it comes.
If you weren’t a surfer, what would you want to be?
I’d love to be a ski instructor! I used to have a dream of setting up my own ski school in France – one especially for kids with a Halloween theme full of tunnels, arches and little jumps! I love getting creative also so I guess doing something ‘arty’ would definitely be top of my list too.
Three things from your bucket list:
I actually don’t have a bucket list yet! Bucket lists remind me of the last days of your life and that’s obviously something I don’t like to think about!! If I had to choose three things I would really love to do maybe they would be:
1: To have the ability to surf a ‘big’ wave (like the Cribbar) and get towed out by a jet ski.
2: To spend some time in a cattery helping to rescue cats.
3: To get dropped by helicopter at the top of a mountain and ski down off-piste.
If you were going to shape a board, what would it be?
As part of my work experience I got to spend a bit of time with Matt Adams shaping the boards, and although I really enjoyed it, I don’t have a clue what type of shape I would go for, but I know that I would be way more excited if you offered me to draw on a new board!
Do you have a favourite pre/post surf snack?
I’m really into avocado on wholegrain toast at the moment as a pre-surf snack, and when I’m out of the surf and starving its normally a big bowl of pasta with cheese and salad leaves!
What’s next for you this year?
I’m really looking forward to the Protest Team Trip to Fuerteventura in February where we are shooting their SS16 Collection and doing some filming.
I will finish my college course in March and I have a few options available, which is a great position to be in, but apart from that I will also continue with my surf instructing (at home and abroad), surf judging, volunteering with The Wave Project and a few modelling jobs.