A surfer from Noosa's sun drenched shores obsessed with the dark world of gothic horror, Jai Lee's personal struggles and addiction to noseriding have twisted his creativity. Words: Chris Preston Photos: Thomas Robinson (pp 1&3), Andy Staley (pp4)and Dane Peterson

From Gerry Lopez to machine shaping and the retro scene, Tim Stafford chews the fat with UK surf veteran - and mighty leader of the Foam Asylum - Nigel Semmens

Quietly considered and eloquent, you might know of Nathan Oldfield through his films 'Lines From A Poem' and 'Seaworthy'. Surf Screen's Christiaan Bailey popped him a few duly thoughtful questions about creative motivations and the surf film industry. Photos: Nathan Oldfield

Al Knost is one of the best sliders around and has a close connection with a scene far removed from the modern marketplace hustle. Ryan Tatar tracked him down with his project partner Tyler Manson and gave us an insight into their freshest work. Words: Ryan Tatar Photos: Jamie Bott & Tyler Manson

Following the demise of Clark Foam, 'eco' boards and alternatives to petro-chemical products have been the focus of developments in surfboard technology. Words: Mark Sankey Photos: Alexa Poppe

Chris Preston interviews Sydney's Matt Chojnacki. His surfing may be heavily influenced by the glories of the past, but to tag him as just another retro dude is missing the mark. Words: Chris Preston. Photos: Matt Johnson / thesealife.com.au


Shark encounters and wobble boards

April 23, 2012 | Words By: Ryan Huxley

The aeronautical descent into Sydney airport is the only time I get the flying jitters. You know the feeling, you have spent weeks, months, even years away from your closest friends, family, and for me favorite clients.


Combine this with the heightened anticipation of reconnecting with nostalgic childhood waves, landscapes, smells and sounds, and you begin to understand why you have this rock in your stomach. At this point I am usually simultaneously suppressing unhelpful images of everyone in the plane screaming whilst clambering in unison to blow useless whistles on route to a corporeal crash landing.

Anyway, the plane landed safely, car rental came next, followed by a drive up the east coast on route to the family seaside home. On route I also did something I always aspired to. A spontaneous roadside purchase of a 1985 Toyota Land cruiser Safari named ‘Trev’, named in part for his simple, uncomplicated nature.

I had timed my return perfectly with a visit from my brother, a building easterly swell, and the scintillating mix of beach breaks, sand points and lack of humans that characterize the National Parks of home. With every Ying comes a Yang though and the Yang for us is the presence of the men or woman in grey suits. This time of year the spotted mullet run enhances their presence. This run occurs when the juvenile mullet who have grown in the relative safety of the east coast river nursery’s wait for a strong southerly change before simultaneously flushing out into the big yonder. These timid chums then hug the coast attracting fisherman and much larger cartilaginous hunters.

I am being a little dramatic, the reality is shark attacks are rare, when the water is transparent things are generally okay, if you see a bait ball exit the water, and be careful at river mouths and in murky water, easy! The problem for any surfer, myself included, is that when the surf is epic these seemingly simple rules become complicated. This morning my girlfriend, brother and I ignored three out of the above four rules. The result of this was a gentle bump on my brother’s leg, courtesy of a juvenile bronze whaler. I was then the recipient of a facial expression that spoke a thousand words; I mirrored this expression onto my girlfriend, and within 30 seconds had scampered to high ground.

Lets now move to a more balanced viewpoint. I want to introduce the ‘wobble board’ or ‘air cushion’, a piece of surf fitness equipment I personally use to improve my own surf experience, and prescribe to improve the surf experience of all of my clients. This device can be used to increase surf specific leg strengthening by increasing instability under the feet thus improving balance, reaction time and strength for surfing. Your local physiotherapist/physical therapist should either stock this or be able to order it for you. If you are interested in some specific exercises on your wobble board, drop me a line at [email protected].

The air cushion: ready for a 1 or 2 feet balancing act

Ryan Huxley is the co-founder and program creator at Surfbodysoul, a website that provides safe, effective, holistic, scientific e-book exercise programs catering for surfers of all age, level and experience. Ryan is a qualified Physiotherapist, Exercise Physiologist, Advanced Yoga and Pilates instructor. His list of pro surfing clients includes Fergal Smith, Chippa Wilson, Anthony Walsh, Paige Hareb, Emi Cataldi & Rusty Miller.


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