A surfer from Noosa's sun drenched shores obsessed with the dark world of gothic horror, Jai Lee's personal struggles and addiction to noseriding have twisted his creativity. Words: Chris Preston Photos: Thomas Robinson (pp 1&3), Andy Staley (pp4)and Dane Peterson

Mark Leary's latest work deviates sharply from the usual surf photography portfolio, celebrating as it does the commonplace, everyday aspects of surfing instead of monster swells and awesome barrels. Chris Preston chats to him about moments captured.

Crime and punishment, it's all relative. A brush with the law is nothing more for most of us than a speeding fine or curt telling off, but we're a very privileged bunch... Words & photos: Carly Lorente

During December 1970 and January 1971, my father, my brother Duncan and I designed the first Bonzer. It was the beginning of an amazing journey. Words: Malcolm Campbell. Photos: Miguel Barreira

James Bowden kissed goodbye to Blighty and set off for Tasmania's wild in January this year. He shares some of his findings along the way with his own distinctive style.

Devastated by more than a decade of civil war, the Republic of Liberia is still in a serious state of flux. Could surfing bring a new hope and more peaceful future to this West African nation? Words & photos: Nicholai Lidow & Kate Thomas. Additional photos: Ted Grambeau & Jamie Bott


Jeff Rowley goes left at Mavericks

March 15, 2012 | Words By: Staff Writer

Big wave surfer Jeff Rowley paddles into Mavericks left in California and becomes the first Australian to conquer this challenge.


Mavericks is California’s premier big wave surfing location and is traditionally considered a right hander, with it’s heavier and more unpredictable left hander virtually unwanted by surfers. Rowley has based himself in the USA for the North Pacific winter surf season and relocated from Hawaii to Northern California with bigger swells forecast for the remainder of the season. In freezing conditions, Rowley and a small crew of Mavericks regulars enjoyed a morning of light winds and uncrowded waves before an onshore wind came up.

Rowley was pushing the boundaries of what was possible at the Mavericks left hander, a task that wasn’t without it’s challenges.

The Left Hander at Mavericks is really heavy - the take off is a vertical free fall into an nasty slab barrel“, Rowley explains. “I wiped out on a monster wave and tumbled down, it drained all of my energy and I didn’t know which way was up. The water is so cold and the waves are so powerful, one mistake and the wave eats you for breakfast, and next thing you know, you’re washing in towards the rocks“.

In surfing Mavericks left hander, Rowley became the first Australian surfer to paddle into the deadly waves. During the session Rowley rode his 10’2” (3m) Al Merrick quad fin surfboard dubbed the “Magic Carpet”. Rowley, a regular stance surfer is required to ride Mavericks left hander with his back towards the wave.

The wave is crazy I’ve never had my 10’2″ surfboard free falling on the take off on my backhand like I did today. It was just me, a handful of great local surfers and a couple of seals, classic day” said Rowley.

Rowley remains in California to see out the end of the North Pacific winter surf season.

Photo: Minnie Vuong/Xvolution Media



1 Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Lastest Big Waves News | Surfing in South Africa 16 03 12

Comment


Advertise here