A profile of shaper Chris Jones: If you surf sooner or later you’ll end up at Chris Jones’ door. Who else can offer you fifty years of shaping experience? Who else was there at the beginning? CJ, legendary shaper/surfer, rugby fanatic, pasty connoisseur is this morning sanding down a vintage Tiki for restoration.

Following the demise of Clark Foam, 'eco' boards and alternatives to petro-chemical products have been the focus of developments in surfboard technology. Words: Mark Sankey Photos: Alexa Poppe

Highs and lows in Morocco. Photos and words by Dan Crockett.

Hidden away in a Falmouth boatyard among the classic lines of traditional timber ships is an unusual surfboard factory: one in which the boards are finished with wood and natural oils. Here tradition meets modernism. This is Glass Tiger. Words: Mark Sankey Action photos: Kirstin Prisk Other photos & design: Alexa Poppe

Chris Burkard's photographs are about more than barrels, perfect point breaks, and carving radical lines – they capture a moment in which the surfer is a mere player and the real star is the scenery. Words: Dan Hamlin Photos: Chris Burkard

During December 1970 and January 1971, my father, my brother Duncan and I designed the first Bonzer. It was the beginning of an amazing journey. Words: Malcolm Campbell. Photos: Miguel Barreira

Homeless at fourteen, prison by eighteen, Jonny Gibbings endured a violent and difficult start to life, resulting in being illiterate until late teens. Now a published author Jonny talks to Drift and shares his lifelong passion for Surf.

Follow cameraman Mike Lacey as he takes on Hawaii. An amazing collection of photos from the spiritual home of surfing. www.mikelaceyphotography.co.uk

James Bowden recently explored the farthest shores of the British Isles, taking nothing more than his van, good friends and good expectations. He recounts his journey through the lens...

Kye Fitzgerald recounts the tale of the unusual return of Bobby Owens' magic board. Photos: Mark Onorati, Aitionn

A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth


ASP Trestles 2014: Flair and air in the SoCal sun


September 23, 2014 | Words By:

trestles_thumbTavarua and J-Bay are too exotic. Chopes is just too mental. Lower Trestles however is just perfect. A sublime peak splitting left and right across a pebble bottom so flawlessly that about a million people fight for a wave every set. And to those who can find a wave it is a watery skate park drenched in SoCal sunshine.

This year’s Hurly Pro was supposed to be a game changer, an opportunity for a new world order. Trestles is, after all, the birthplace of the Slater winning machine. It was here Captain Star trunks ripped the place apart in Quiksilver’s 1991, Kelly Slater in Black and White drew first blood in the changing of the guard. In 1990 Slater tail-slid his glass slipper through the door followed by the rest of the ‘Momentum Generation’. Nearly 25 years after the Body Glove Surfabout Slater launched himself into the most impossible of suicide airs to signal that he was still the man to beat. Only Slater has the audacity to think he can land such a ridiculous punt.

 

 

Why is King Kelly launching himself into the stratosphere above Orange county? Because the Brazilians are coming

Why is King Kelly launching himself into the stratosphere above Orange county? Because the Brazilians are coming. Led by a very hungry Gabriel Medina who took the crown at the suicide fest that was the Billabong Tahiti Pro, the south Americans are tying everything up above and below the lip. Quick agile Medina should have been well at home and favourite in the perfect ‘SoCal peaks’. A win here would put him within a clear shot at the title and the first Brazilian to claim the trophy. Of the last 22 world titles Slater, Fanning and Parko account for 15. Whole generations have come and gone like the tides but these three keep mopping up everything. Gabriel is the closest the Jordy/Julian contingent has got to the front but it was the kids in the year below them who look more dangerous.

 

 

The event belonged to John John. Oahu’s finest looked unstoppable. The boy treated trestles as a skate park and tore the place apart. It was a showcase of modern surfing as Florence punted airs of every rotation and carved hooks and drop wallets that left the ocean scared for days after. His fluidity and flair were matched only by his coolness and focus. As the commenter’s noted his board was waxed to the tip on the nose. He got five nines in a single heat. Five!

 

 

Since marrying his sweetheart, Jordy’s legs have been a little shaky

Yet it was seemingly out of form Jordy Smith who took the crown. Since marrying his sweetheart, Jordy’s legs have been a little shaky (insert your own joke here). At J Bay he put on a master class but wobbly legs left him with only a 5th. At Teahupo’o he took the ‘beating of his life’ and settled for a 25th. And throughout the trestles event the Smith version of power surfing was derailed by a fail in nearly every heat. Each time he was forced to surf another heat. While the South African certainly has the talent to take a world title and last year he was runner up to Julian Wilson, I don’t think anyone was putting money on him this year. Yet John John’s fire seemed to wane in the final and Jordy, who’d come too far to have a repeat of last year, opened with 9.33 worth of power and plasticity. Ultimately it was Smith’s maturity and hunger that stole him his first win of the season.

 

 

The Hurley Pro results haven’t made a lot of difference to the rankings as we move into the cold water barrels of the Landes the title race is again wide open with only three events left.

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