5.5ft and glassy

This morning, after suffering through two weeks of heavy winds that turned otherwise perfect 9 foot waves into choppy schwag, the air was still, the ocean was perfectly glassy and the 5.5 feet waves were peeling just right. It was bliss.

That zen-like surfing feeling returned after two straight weeks of despair induced by blown out waves, frigid winds and ‘desordenado’ mush. The break I was at, Punta Roquitas, often closes out too quickly and its allure diminishes quickly if waves are higher than 6ft. But in the range that is considered small for Peru, say from 4ft to 6ft, it works beautifully, especially if you have a fish that allows you to get up on the wave a wee bit faster and earlier. Today the conditions were perfect. All you had to do was paddle a bit, make a quick turn to after dropping in, pump your legs a couple times, put a rail halfway up the wave and then just boogie on down the line all the way to the jetty as the wave walled up… In between waves, we watched big, lazy pelicans scoop fish out of the water right next to us…

The dog loved it too.