I changed job and my plan now was to save some money. But first things first, my initial paycheck went, of course, to a surf camp. Money is supposed to be invested in something and a surf trip was the best investment I could think of.
My focus in life had changed. I was going to spend my new years eve in Morocco. I thought it was about time I went to a place where I could surf every day and focus on what is important.
I went to Agadir, Morocco – I had arranged this through my Italian surf agency. I joined up with them and got to hang out with a lot of Italians, which was great.
Lorenzo Castagna, who had been my instructor at Sardinia, was one of my instructors here too. They were mostly Italians, but also a girl from England. I started to talk with all the other people and they were so lovely. Happy, caring, smiling people, just doing what they needed the most, to go surfing.
I couldn’t wait to get into the water. Normally I love lying in bed for some time before I get up, but this time I couldn’t wait to get up. The cars were loaded with boards, we all had our wetsuits and off we went to the beach. The group was divided to more advanced surfers and beginners. I was in the beginner group, I knew how to stand up, but just in the white water.
At this time I hadn’t surfed for a couple of months, but what I had learnt was still there. I was so happy. We spent the whole day at the beach, surfing, laughing, talking. Lorenzo told me he was impressed because I actually went for rougher waves than beginner girls usually do. The other instructor, Abdellah Boutit, told me to stop going for the big waves before I could handle the small ones.
I was aware that I’m not at the level yet, and I know that you have to build a good foundation before you go to the next step. That is true no matter what you do in life. I did go for the small waves, but I continued to take some that were too big for me. I listened to both of them… What if I would have managed a bigger wave for the first time? You never know if you don’t try!
I kept on struggling with getting out to the lineup, but at one point during this week it actually changed. I started to enjoy even going out and I realised I had learned how to flow in the waves even going out. This was hugely different to my earlier struggles.
Then it came, the day I had been waiting for. I went into the water as always, took some waves, still in the white rush, but now it was time to go for the green waves. Of course I fell, many times. I went paddling into the lineup and saw massive jellyfish as well as fish in the waves. It was beautiful!
I was trying and trying, all while having another instructor with me in the water telling me how to improve. Then suddenly, it happened. A wave was coming, I started to paddle and I just felt it. I knew it was time to get up, so I did and I surfed my first green wave.
Dreams and reality have never been so combined in my whole life. This was the most wonderful moment I have had in my whole life. Sometimes, I think it was a dream, but it wasn’t. I surfed a green wave! New Years eve came, we sang, played, ate and danced.
These people went straight into my heart. I think I found my first surfing family and I hold all of them very close to my heart. Isn’t it wonderful how you can find your own loving families all over the world?
The first day this year, I was tired. Not from drinking too much or sleeping too little. I was tired from a week of surfing. It was hard to get into the water after the first morning session. Finally my friends convinced me and I had the best beginning of a year anyone could ever wish for.
We had such a laugh and it was something special on this afternoon. There was a moment when I was paddling out towards the early sunset with three of my dear new friends. It just hit me at that moment that this was what life is all about. Paddling towards the sun, with friends towards new adventures.
This is my grand finale of my little journey of learning how to surf. I hope my sharing of my struggle and mistakes will encourage at least some beginners, no matter what you are beginning with.
What I’ve learned in life is your goal is worth nothing if you don’t enjoy the process to get there. If you focus to enjoy the process, not the result or goal, the outcome will be excellent. The outcome will be, your happiness.
To keep track of Lovisa head over to her site www.lovisastahl.com