Last month Adam Amin polarised the surf community by sneaking into the Big Wave ‘Peahi Challenge’ comp at the infamous Jaws. Adam’s actions garnered coverage from around the globe and saw the Devon lad not only plastered across the surf press but also mainstream media.
While some newspapers hailed Adam as a ‘fearless’ and ‘incredible’ certain quarters of the surf community offered the flip-side calling him ‘reckless’ and ‘idiotic’. There is no doubt this story and his actions have divided surfers’ opinions and caused considerable uproar.
Now that the dust has settled we caught up with Adam to ask him a few questions about the Peahi event, big waves and the future…
Hey Adam, your story went pretty crazy pretty quickly, how do you feel about it all now and in particular the commentary surrounding your exploits?
I feel as though the support is amazing from the surfing community but as it goes, there are always haters in surfing.
For example, I surf as though every big wave surfer started, by working my way up and getting beaten and smashed to prove my ‘stripes’. All the big names now have these haters and so will I.
I had to surf Jaws without safety equipment in order to prove to myself and others that I don’t have to rely on it, therefore when I surf with my equipment I can feel much more comfortable and focus on what’s at hand.
I have seen so many jet ski riders screw up and not save surfers so I wanted to prove to myself that I don’t need to put my life in someone else’s hands but can handle the situation by myself.
Missed the action? Check out Adam riding Jaws here from 12-16 seconds
Apart from all we have read in blogs and online what has the general reaction been from other surfers?
Other surfers have congratulated me on my dream, even huge names in the surfing world such as Greg Long and Kai Lenny know my story and not only have they pointed me in the right direction but they have sympathised and congratulated me as they have been in the same situation previously.
What do you have planned next and where do you plan to take this?
I plan to stay in Hawaii slightly longer and then I’m heading to Puerto Escondido, Mexico which is another infamous big wave arena.
Any final message to the people that say you have no place in the line-up at Jaws?
I would like to say to these people that I will continue to follow my dreams and aspirations as well as represent England further instead of sitting back and watching the world go by without me.
You can either live and watch or live and do. I want to fulfil my dreams and be happy doing so and if people want to help me and or support me then that would be a bonus.
Main image credit: Glenn Tremble