Standing on the high, sheep ridden cliffs you can catch a glimpse of what was happening on the Sand Dune at that moment. Fed up with the small mushy waves breaking on the old submarine docks, Finn and Jonas start paddling along the cliffs to look for a more desirable wave. A little slab, that was barely working but could be an option for bigger swells, is their reward. With our sight down the cliffs we spot the lads like we were in a crow’s nest. Slowly, the sun wraps around the storm-beaten horizon. After a couple of waves the two are paddling back to shore while Felix and I explore the surroundings.
As we head down to the beach, we see Jonas, Finn and Lars talking to a police officer. At that point we don’t know if we are already banned from the island, but a laugh is ringing loud in the landscape. The police are finally on our side. Getting closer to the group we realise what kind of officer it is. Between stories of his teenage years and a sailors yarn about the island, he’s telling us why he had to come down to the beach on his bike – a pedestrian had seen Jonas’ abandoned surfboard on the beach and thought someone was in trouble.
The sun has set. On the way to the hostel we meet two folks selling hot wine to people on the public football field. We buy a round and get the news that our boat back tomorrow is not going due to a “Grünkohl” dinner.
Next morning we are going over to the Dune. The captain tells us that two other surfers were already going over that morning. Maybe Helgoland isn’t as untouched as we thought.
We start running to the North beach. The waves are clean and about shoulder to head high. The captain was right, there are already two people in the water. But the real locals are seals which are either hanging around casually at the beach or encircling the boys in the water with the curious sights.
Jonas and Finn sprint into their wetsuits in a breathtaking tempo and paddle out
Jonas and Finn sprint into their wetsuits in a breathtaking tempo and paddle out, we finally get to see the first barrels and airs. A vibration of perfection is shivering down our backs as the sun peeks out of the cloudy horizon. In the middle of the North Sea we find what we’ve been looking for. A day long session finishes by a stroll back to the last boat to return us to the main island. We fuel our energy levels with pizza and beers. Tomorrow there is still half a day of surfing and the forecast looks splendid. Just a couple more beers in the local fisherman’s pub. Crossword puzzles, beer and a very authentic clientele is how the night begins. A little later our evening plans changed from “Let’s get an early night” to “Let’s drink lots of Akvavit!“, that liquid Danish demon juice made of caraway. An elixir to make new local friends and the catalysts that leads the night to end in the world famous ‘Disko Krebs’. A wild mixture of elderly people, bright colorful lights and way too cheap whiskey are our last memories…
The next morning it is my turn to motivate the crew to go surfing. Bloodshot eyes, paleness and headaches are my opponents. Jonas, Finn & Felix though are strangely motivated to catch the boat at 9 o’ clock. We, the others, are keeping it casual and have breakfast with lots of coffee. After our circulatory system has started to work properly again we make our way to the Sand Dune. When we arrive at the beach, Finn & Jonas have already started to play with the small but clean waves and the slight offshore breeze. The seals are either chilling on the beach or watching the spectacle from shorter distance in the water. One of the local surfers told us last night we were “lucky” and that a day like yesterday “is only five times a year”, we have another really rad session. We top the day off with taking some shots with the seals before we head off to catch the ferry back to the mainland.
With weepy eyes, encapsulated in memories of the nice people we met and the good waves we had, we are sitting in the belly of the boat. Totally exhausted, but with a smile on our faces we just can’t wipe off.
Miss part one? Catch it here
Deep fried Mars bars
Watch the Headache trailer here