We all have our own issues going on in our lives, whether it’s the passing of the local neighbourhood cat or something more personal, we may even be familiar with someone who is going through heartache. We have inspirational stories from all over the globe that speak of the value of water and how it acts as a catalyst in our lives.
Why shouldn’t it ? Statically the human body comprises of 65% – 78% depending on the variables. Water is a dynamic element of nature that has the capability of changing form throughout its life span and moulding to its surroundings.
There is no surprise as to why surfers keep coming back, again and again. As Mickey Smith said, “To seek the simple satisfaction of our own mortality.”
Some years ago, the NHS launched a pioneering programme to introduce the idea of surfing as a possible inhibitor to depression and other mental health disorders. After six weeks of surfing the Cornish coastline, active participants noticed a considerable improvement of their mood and self esteem according to Joe Taylor who oversaw the proceedings.
I think for a lot of us who surf the winter months in the UK , there is an immobility of motivation, assisted with the howling winds, whistling ghostly melodies through the cracks you never knew existed. Cold water and brain freeze, driving you mad as we find ourselves questioning our love for the ocean.
Amongst the numb feet, the spray lashing into your eyes, we see a glimmer of hope, a shimmer of light that breaks through the ominous clouds, as the set rolls in and the calamity of which you thought was real now dissipates in the moment to take off on that wave.
With a modest smile and an uncanny shake of your head as you realise that’s why you return to the sea, to find satisfaction and as the days become longer and the Magnolias begin to bloom, we feel we have survived with the flame of stoke still burning strong.
Spring has arrived and the Mockingbirds sing.
Photography by Sam Lewis / Written by Bruce Collingwood