It’s amazing how busy you become when you retire. Leaving my company and my job behind as I set forth on this journey I naively imagined the vast expanses of time I was opening up would be used to explore new vocations, skills and pastimes, yet there aren’t enough hours in the day to even write this damn blog.
I haven’t written this blog for weeks now, caught up in a variety of projects, articles, plots and schemes, whilst also becoming snagged on the snaggle-toothed edge of a writer’s block. I just couldn’t get motivated to sit down and write, and I’ve got plenty to be getting on with – an article for the Sunday Telegraph, a piece for a surf mag, some business plans… So what happened? What dragged me from the mire? What hauled me from my stupour? What prised me from my lethargy? Waves. Pure and simple, the waves returned.
Life here in our jungle-fringed pink house between Varkala town and Varkala beach drifts gently by and feels more like home as each day passes. Our location between real India (town) and tourist India (beach) affords us the best of both worlds.
Dont Jump Off the Pier
A brief history of surfing in the north-east of England.
Forty Bonzer Years
Malcolm Campbell lists fourty notable things to represent the forty years of the Bonzer.
Mission: possible
Portugal explodes onto the global big wave circuit.
Thirty thousand
Richard James shoots a surf trip of 30,000 kilometres along the west cost of Africa.
All in Hand
When it comes to surfcraft there’s a newcomer making waves
A Few Smooth Lines
Chris Preston interviews Sydney's Matt Chojnacki
The train to Taghazout
Mat Arney attempts to hop aboard the slow train to Morocco, boardbag in tow.
Single Fin Serendipity
The unusual return of Bobby Owens' magic board.
Nature on display
Chris Burkard’s photographs are about the scenery being the star of the show.
Peterson Threebeard
All aboard the good ship Peterson Threebeard
Surfilmfestibal 2011
The surfilmfestibal festival attempts to connect the global surfing community
Walls of Perception
Ben Thouard joins Oxbow in search of adventure and virgin waves.
