Comments on: Everything’s Fine… http://www.driftsurfing.eu/index.php/archives/4380 Perspective(s) in Surfing Thu, 09 Feb 2012 10:48:28 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0 By: Andy Lawson http://www.driftsurfing.eu/index.php/archives/4380#comment-2559 Andy Lawson Mon, 08 Mar 2010 16:26:54 +0000 http://www.driftsurfing.eu/?p=4380#comment-2559 Doesn't that sound oh so familiar? It brings back shameful memories of a humbling experience I had a few years back. I was holidaying near Looe with my family, and before we left I threw my old Peck Penetrator on the roof bars of the car, more of an afterthought really. The kids were small and rock pools and playing with dad on the beach kept me away from taking a day out to check out the North Coast. One morning while having an early coffee and a crafty ciggie I remembered a spot I had noticed in previous years that seemed to have potential. It was a small cove with black sand that reminded me of the New Zealand beaches I played on as a kid. Leaving a grovelling note promising to wash up and cook for the rest of the week I drove on down to Seaton. Even the name makes me shudder in shame. I call it Satan now. Grey, windy, and what looked like a good 3-5ft swell albeit a tad messy. One sea fisherman on the beach. I'd ridden the safe beachbreaks of North Devon for years and was determined to be adventurous. I got out suprisingly easily, well after Saunton's half mile paddle through line after line of whitewater anything's easy! The trouble was the swell seemed to be building, and a nasty cross shore rip was dragging me towards the end of the beach. Every time I paddled for a wave I'd miss it. Come on..I told myself, you've been surfing for years. Dont panic, just catch one in. Easier said than done! and that rational voice in my head sounded like it had the edge of panic to it. If I didn't get in soon I'd be swept round the point, and yet when I watched the waves breaking on and right up on the steep beach I wondered how I'd get through the shorebreak? Oh God...I could have been back at the cottage filling my fat face with croissant and reading about someone else risking life and limb! I finally caught a wave, made the drop and pulled in. The wave kinda doubled up...and instead of kicking out I cut back...into the shorebreak! I can still remember looking down and seeing the outgoing water dragging the cobbles as it sucked out dry under the nose of the board. I ate it pretty bad, and even more humiliating ( not to mention terrifying) was being dragged back into the shorebreak by the wave every time I tried to stand up. My pride and joy was forgotted as I tried desperately to get a toe hold on the beach, eventually crawling up the cobbles to safety. I could have kissed that beach, in fact I think I did. The old fella came over and said slowly, "I wouldn't advise you to go out there today boy, it took me 15lb lead weight and then me 20lb" Yeh....er thanks. I drove home glad to be alive and cured of going out alone at unfamiliar spots. A humbling experience. I've since ridden bigger and more critical waves, surfed some lonely and sometimes bizarre breaks but that place haunts me to this day. I'm blushing in shame just writing this. Bloody Satan! Doesn’t that sound oh so familiar? It brings back shameful memories of a humbling experience I had a few years back. I was holidaying near Looe with my family, and before we left I threw my old Peck Penetrator on the roof bars of the car, more of an afterthought really. The kids were small and rock pools and playing with dad on the beach kept me away from taking a day out to check out the North Coast.
One morning while having an early coffee and a crafty ciggie I remembered a spot I had noticed in previous years that seemed to have potential. It was a small cove with black sand that reminded me of the New Zealand beaches I played on as a kid. Leaving a grovelling note promising to wash up and cook for the rest of the week I drove on down to Seaton. Even the name makes me shudder in shame. I call it Satan now.
Grey, windy, and what looked like a good 3-5ft swell albeit a tad messy. One sea fisherman on the beach.
I’d ridden the safe beachbreaks of North Devon for years and was determined to be adventurous. I got out suprisingly easily, well after Saunton’s half mile paddle through line after line of whitewater anything’s easy!
The trouble was the swell seemed to be building, and a nasty cross shore rip was dragging me towards the end of the beach. Every time I paddled for a wave I’d miss it. Come on..I told myself, you’ve been surfing for years. Dont panic, just catch one in. Easier said than done! and that rational voice in my head sounded like it had the edge of panic to it. If I didn’t get in soon I’d be swept round the point, and yet when I watched the waves breaking on and right up on the steep beach I wondered how I’d get through the shorebreak? Oh God…I could have been back at the cottage filling my fat face with croissant and reading about someone else risking life and limb!

I finally caught a wave, made the drop and pulled in. The wave kinda doubled up…and instead of kicking out I cut back…into the shorebreak! I can still remember looking down and seeing the outgoing water dragging the cobbles as it sucked out dry under the nose of the board. I ate it pretty bad, and even more humiliating ( not to mention terrifying) was being dragged back into the shorebreak by the wave every time I tried to stand up.
My pride and joy was forgotted as I tried desperately to get a toe hold on the beach, eventually crawling up the cobbles to safety. I could have kissed that beach, in fact I think I did. The old fella came over and said slowly, “I wouldn’t advise you to go out there today boy, it took me 15lb lead weight and then me 20lb” Yeh….er thanks.
I drove home glad to be alive and cured of going out alone at unfamiliar spots. A humbling experience.
I’ve since ridden bigger and more critical waves, surfed some lonely and sometimes bizarre breaks but that place haunts me to this day. I’m blushing in shame just writing this. Bloody Satan!

]]> By: Chris P http://www.driftsurfing.eu/index.php/archives/4380#comment-2217 Chris P Wed, 03 Mar 2010 17:36:02 +0000 http://www.driftsurfing.eu/?p=4380#comment-2217 Nicely put! Scary when that realisation that you are in trouble hits & you're right, wet sand never felt so good! Nicely put!

Scary when that realisation that you are in trouble hits & you’re right, wet sand never felt so good!

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