A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth

Ireland's fierce and unpredictable breaks have been valued by its home-grown big wave riders for some years now, but competition has been a long time coming. All that changed with the inaugral Mullaghmore Tow Session 2011. Conn Osborne got in harm's way to steal a photo essay.

Drift tracked down Mark Jeremias and Jason Baffa, directors of ‘Singlefin: Yellow’, to talk about their new project, ‘One California Day’, and find out their thoughts on surf culture and tradition from Crescent City to Imperial Beach. Words: Jamie Bott

A world away from the average commercial surf competition, pushy dads and nervous groms, generations share the stoke at a contest that celebrates the original Hawaiian spirit. This is truly a unique perspective in surfing. Photos: Yves S

James Bowden kissed goodbye to Blighty and set off for Tasmania's wild in January this year. He shares some of his findings along the way with his own distinctive style.

Richard James and his brother Andrew recently finished shooting their first film, a surf trip of 30,000 kilometres along the west cost of Africa. Words and photos: Richard James


Crazy for the Storm

July 15, 2009 | Words By: Clare

opener21A book landed on my doormat today. From a PR company. Now, I’m a big fan of reading and a big fan of surfing, but often the books that I get sent don’t do either of them justice. This one is an exception.

‘Crazy for the Storm’ is the memoir of Norman Ollestad, who grew up amidst the uninhibited surf culture of Malibu and Mexico in the late 1970s. Thirty years ago, at just 11 years old, he was flying to a ski championship ceremony with his father when their plane crashed in the San Gabriel mountains. Norman was the only survivor. In the book he talks about his experience stranded 82,000ft up in ice and blizzards, his survival, his father and how it shaped him growing up.

A pretty powerful story and one that’s hard not to get sucked into – I can’t put it down. 15 publishing houses battled over the rights to publish Norman’s memoirs for months before Ecco books, an imprint of Harper Collins, won out with the hardback version hitting the bookstores this month. On top of that, the film rights have just been acquired by Warner Brothers.

The book can be bought from Amazon and all major book retailers.


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