A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth

"I'm not interested in formulae when it comes to surfing and art." Ryan Lovelace talks to Chris Preston about trusting your eyes, hands, and feet, and adding another leaf to the weird-hull-alternative-vibe-tree. Photos: Morgan Maasen, Brandon DiPierri & Ryan Lovelace

Jimmy Newitt pays homage to one of South Devon's treasures - not a break but a surfer who stands tall in the crowd. Words: Jimmy Newitt Photos: Ollie Howe

Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, Tracks, and director of 'Morning of the Earth', Alby Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Courtesy of Alby Falzon

Jeff Divine remembers the time when surfers were akin to outlaws, and his photographs capture the days of uncrowded line-ups, good vibes and barefoot living. Words: Michael Fordham Photos: Jeff Divine

Big-wave riding is an awe-inspiring experience, but what happens when things go wrong? In an exclusive extract from his new book, Al Mennie explains what it's like to survive the mother of all wipeouts.


Brrrrrrrrilliant ideas

January 11, 2010 | Words By: Matt

humanbygap-snow-gd2Don’t know if anyone else has noticed, but it’s been pretty chilly these last few weeks here in Blighty. Naturally, as a nation we’ve over-reacted – the ‘big freeze’ that has brought Britain to a standstill would probably be considered warm by Siberian standards, but even so, for us poor Brits it’s been as cold as we’d ever want it.


For the surfer this is a big-spend time. The waters are unforgiving, the winds are relentless and with ambient temperatures making the roadside strip even less glamorous than we’re used to, we start to look at ways of surviving. Fortunately there are companies are out there ready and willing to provide the answers – for a price.

Ripcurl offer the thermo heat pad suit, which sounds like they’ve sewn an electric blanket inside. Tiki offer something similar, as do other brands, but they’re way out of my financial reach so I’ve spent the last couple of days considering cheaper, homespun solutions…

The hottie bottie: a simple idea, involving the insertion of a hot-water bottle between you and the wetsuit. Works well enough for about 10 minutes, but eventually feels like you’re carrying a sloppy corpse on your chest.

Placky bag sealed heat pads: similar to the above involving bag-wrapped microwaved beanbags which, when correctly placed, have the added benefit of making you look like a well-endowed girl. Can you safely run a microwave from a car’s cigarette lighter? More research required…

humanbygap-snow-gd1

Tandem wetsuiting: sharing body heat is a simple solution to surviving winter weather. Find a friend – ideally a very slim one with few inhibitions and a penchant for rubber-based thrills – and join them in a single suit. This is a great idea but, be warned, it helps to dress back-to-back if either of both of you want to breathe.

Seal suiting: if anyone knows how to stay warm in a cold sea it’s a seal, so grab one and stuff it down your neck – if anyone manages this please let me know!

Alcohol: ah, the simplest ideas are the best. Ignore all the messages about alcohol being bad for you, just neck a bottle of fiery ginger wine and off you go. You’ll be just as cold but I doubt you’ll care.

Okay, so some of these solutions might need further testing before they rival Tiki et al but we’ve got to be brave. For the moment I’ll just have to rely on the old and trusted methods: plenty of Ralgex and a decent piss once I hit the water.


1 Comments


  1. La Rochelle. I kinda have the same heat problems. Just back from a morning session on Ile de Ré, and I’ve been laughing so much reading the above… that I’m warmed up!
    PS: I had a short-john under my 4/3mm, works allright, but can’t turn hard or paddle fast…

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