Comments on: Localism & secret spots

By: Robin

Robin — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 01:46:18 +0000

Thought that might be you Sowry. Good story!

By: Walt Johnson

Walt Johnson — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 01:49:30 +0000

Good points you guys, I agree with all of you in a way, but Hicko,like me, at times you obviously also shoot off from the hip sometimes without getting your facts straight, I,m a n old man, I have children who have children.., i,m not trying to be one of those lucky ones from a by gone era, I am one

And by the way Hicko Ive never met a surfer who is satisfied with the stoke from just one wave, we all want another one , or two, ore three or………………………

I get your point though.,

And sorry about the secretary bit Mick. Happy Silver anniversary, Well Done.

Kettles on the boil.

By: Hicko

Hicko — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 04:54:29 +0000

Im with you Chris, Bill and Whip

By: christian

christian — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 14:09:05 +0000

Walts – you still have a 2 hour advantage over Mick and whilst you can pop back home for a dump and a bite eat a quick kip etc and back into the surf…. Mick has to drive back another 2 hours. You still have the advantage. Maybe you should chill and invite him back to your place and share a pot of tea or a joint before heading back out and sharing some waves?

By: Billy

Billy — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 10:51:35 +0000

Surfing, like everything in this life, is made better with mutual respect. Yes, out-of-towners need to respect ‘locals’ in the water. But the respect has to go both ways. I grew up landlocked in a city (Brisbane) and due to circumstances of life – relationship and work – I now live in Adelaide, again a long drive from the surf. All my life I have been a local nowhere, and horribly envious of people for whom a surf involves a ten minute walk down to the beach after work. It’s a big effort for me to get my weekly salt water fix; being treated like a dog turd just for paddling out when the crew are all over it on a good day is pretty much par for the course for us non-locals. Having said that, paddle out with a smile and a ‘g’day’ and it’s usually all good. The Walts of this world might be full of resentment that we’re encroaching on ‘their’ patch of water, but their attitudes might loosen up a bit if they stopped to think about just how lucky they are to live somewhere with constant access to waves…

By: whip

whip — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 12:41:02 +0000

good points…travelling definately makes you a better mannered surfer, you have to deal with some proper cunits, and meet some nice people…but it helps chill out the meanest local, especially if you take a beating from a bigger meathead somewhere else.

By: Dan Crockett

Dan Crockett — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 22:29:18 +0000

An hour through snow and sheet glass. There was a barn owl out on the broads, almost invisible. Every ten minutes a much bigger set and, in the right spot, a glimpse under the lip. Life at one beach is rich beyond measure, but making it everything clamps your horizons. Travel.

By: Hicko

Hicko — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 18:59:21 +0000

Futhermore to your comment Mick, Walts atttitude is just the kind of seed that creates for negative experiences for those that are not living by the sea. I grew up on the door step of a beach from birth and have seen the changing attitudes within surfers at my local. I know the posers that have moved into the area that believe now cause they have been here a couple of years it gives them the right to treat others that are not so fortunate to live by the sea like they should’nt be breathing! And its not unique to my state it happens all over the country.

But what really gets me Walt is people like you that support this behaviour due to you believing that you live the life of a surfer! Vomit. You guys pick up a book and read about the early guys and the way they lived and believe your life somehow resembles this….as if you are still a virgin from the commercial world that exsists. example. I have seen a middle aged guy who has moved in to the area a couple of years ago with the word ‘SOUL’ printed all over his board absolutely rip into a guy cause he was obviously not a local. This poor guy after being abused actually left the water and packed up and went home. Do you think that is behaviour of a true surfer??? People like you need to get real…the waves are not going to magically stop….there will always be another…relax. If you cant get enough stoke from just one wave…just one wave then there is something wrong with you. I would much rather share a wave with an out of towner than one of your hypocritical types.

By: everyone is a local « thenaturalhigh

everyone is a local « thenaturalhigh — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 22:50:50 +0000

[...] everyone is a local 4 01 2010 http://www.driftsurfing.eu/index.php/archives/3778 [...]

By: Mick

Mick — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 21:59:49 +0000

Thanks everyone for getting involved. I have to respond to Walt’s heartfelt comment though as sometimes choices are not that easy. Melbourne was chosen for me at 10. My industry chose me as it was the only thing I was vaguely good at. Then love came in the form of an English girl who refused point blank to go coastal and continues to do so 25 years later. I still love her.

Life is far more complicated than you can imagine.

Walt, you are the luckiest of men.

And I have never had a secretary.