A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth

Chris Preston interviews Sydney's Matt Chojnacki. His surfing may be heavily influenced by the glories of the past, but to tag him as just another retro dude is missing the mark. Words: Chris Preston. Photos: Matt Johnson / thesealife.com.au

Jimmy Newitt pays homage to one of South Devon's treasures - not a break but a surfer who stands tall in the crowd. Words: Jimmy Newitt Photos: Ollie Howe

Big-wave riding is an awe-inspiring experience, but what happens when things go wrong? In an exclusive extract from his new book, Al Mennie explains what it's like to survive the mother of all wipeouts.

Rebel wave riders on a mission to enlighten the Western world to the true culture of the Middle East, blakkbox redefine the notion of surfers as beach bums who only care about the next wave. Photos: Cole Estrada & Anthony Allen

Four compadres take a New Zealand road-trip in search of lefts in a volcano's shadow… All aboard the good ship Peterson Threebeard with Dano, Purcho, Mud and Johnny.


Shades of green

July 04, 2009 | Words By: Angela

photo by dan crockettA winter jaunt in Celtic climes is strictly for the keen… The waves are fickle and dicey, there is no predictability, but this can add to the pleasure. Dan Crockett and Greg Welch capture moments of joy amid the chaos.

 

 

 

 

 

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During the night, the wind rattled the car so hard it was impossible to sleep. A story circulates that one February a van was blown onto its side in the car park. The weather is heavy here, moving with a stark and unpredictable intensity. In the dawn light, set waves line up on the reef, breaking with flawless symmetry. There is no-one out, because the wind makes the waves impossible to surf. Up and down the coast, perfect reefs reel, empty.


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