A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth

Four compadres take a New Zealand road-trip in search of lefts in a volcano's shadow… All aboard the good ship Peterson Threebeard with Dano, Purcho, Mud and Johnny.

Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, Tracks, and director of 'Morning of the Earth', Alby Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Courtesy of Alby Falzon

Drift caught up with big-wave surfer Carlos Burle on home territory in Brazil to find out why he considers big-wave riding to be a playground for the few who have earned the privilege. Photos: Al McKinnon

Drift checks in with Andrew Crockett following the release of the much-anticipated 'Switch-Foot II', a tribute to surfing's counter-culture.

Meeting a legend is something few people have the opportunity to do. During a short stay in California last winter Dave Muir created his own luck in finding Skip Frye at home. He was welcomed in to take a look around. Words: Dave Muir Photos: Dave Muir and Skip Frye

Otoño/Autumn

September 21, 2009 | Words By: Guille

opener2Otoño es una época de cambios.

Es abrigarse, es la mejor luz del año. Es cafés calientes viendo una mar cabreada. Es un paseo mañanero por Oviedo en un día lluvioso. Es Amagüestu – sidra dulce, castañas y musica folk. Es viento Sur, es hacer kilómetros. Es buscar lugares resguardados donde entrar con el tablón. Es surfear solo. Es la alegría de volver a ver de nuevo a Tony Butt, es conocer a gente nueva. Es sesiones de olas grandes, es occidente y oriente a la vez. Es verdes y marrones, es paisaje, es Asturias en su máxima expresión.

otono2Se nota que es mi época preferida del año?

Ocupen sus asientos, el otoño está a punto de empezar.

otonoAutumn is a time of change. It’s shelter and the best light of the year. Hot coffee in front of a raging sea. It’s an Oviedo morning walk on a rainy day. It´s Amagüestu – sweet cider, roasted chestnuts and folk music. South wind, driving for miles. It’s seeking sheltered places where I can go with my longboard. Surfing alone. It’s good to see Tony Butt again. It’s meeting new people. It’s big-wave sessions, west and east simultaneously. Green and brown, landscape, Asturias at its best.

otono-4Can you tell that it’s my favourite season?

Take your seats – autumn is about to begin.
otono3

   

Comment

←
→

Advertise here