A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth

Drift checks in with Andrew Crockett following the release of the much-anticipated 'Switch-Foot II', a tribute to surfing's counter-culture.

When legendary longboard designer Bob McTavish came to Devon recently as part of TIKI's international shaper tour, Chris Preston couldn't resist the opportunity to quiz him about the technicalities of board design... Photos: Jamie Bott

Cyrus Sutton made an impression on the international film circuit with his 2003 breakthrough movie 'Riding Waves'. Now the EMMY award-winning documentary maker has turned his attention to the divergent surf scenes of Australia's Gold Coast and Byron Bay. Words: Tommy Leitch Photos: Courtesy of Cyrus Sutton

Mark Leary's latest work deviates sharply from the usual surf photography portfolio, celebrating as it does the commonplace, everyday aspects of surfing instead of monster swells and awesome barrels. Chris Preston chats to him about moments captured.

James Bowden kissed goodbye to Blighty and set off for Tasmania's wild in January this year. He shares some of his findings along the way with his own distinctive style.

Those Bagus Days

September 17, 2009 | Words By: Alexa

noseride-bw_openAfter my planned trip to the longboard heaven of Costa Rica had to be aborted for various reasons, I found myself on a plane heading for Bali.

Although I – like most other surfers – enjoy fast and hollow surf, I had been put off Bali by macho talk I had heard in the past, of shallow and dangerous reefs, hungry for your skin. But my boyfriend convinced me it was just big talk, that we’d avoid those spots anyway. And I had always wanted to see Bali for myself.

When my boardbag appeared at the baggage collection point after the flight, I was struck with horror at the sight of one end of my bag, torn to shreds. My worst fears were confirmed when I opened the bag – the last 12 inches of my board had been smashed into a hundred pieces. My favourite board was ruined, a gorgeous raspberry and magenta Corduroy 9’ singlefin speed shape. A never-to-be-replaced custom, I had even mixed the colours for the resin myself. Nothing could hold back the tears, and I felt that my trip was ruined.

medewi-bw_smallMark and I traipsed around the dirty, smog ridden and humid Kuta, being harassed by hawkers and shopkeepers, in search of a longboard, to no avail. The smog made my eyes red and the humidity turned my hair into an afro, and I started questioning why I was there. But the karmic wheel is always spinning on the Island of the Gods and when we were about to quit I found the perfect Bali longboard in a little back-street shop, manned by a gaggle of typical Bali groms. So after the obligatory haggling I purchased a Town and Country high-performance nine-footer.

medewi-surfing_bwOnce I escaped Kuta, I found the real Bali, a breathtaking island with many fantastic waves. We scored great sessions at Medewi, Kuta Reef, Nusa Lembongan, Uluwatu and many spots up the east coast. Not once did I need a helmet, and I revelled in the Indonesian perfection.

locals_small-bwThe people of Bali are some of the most beautiful – on the inside and outside – you will ever meet, and they enjoy an amazing culture going back thousands of years. After exploring the island, being invited by a local family to a small traditional ceremony, watching a historical play, viewing temples and witnessing the Balinese people approaching their difficult daily lives with such good humour and kindness, I was inspired to take many photos and produce an eBook to capture the experience.

       

1 Comments


  1. kathrin says:
    November 2, 2009 at 12:11 pm

    hey there!

    Real nice article .
    I love the fact that this predicament has occured to more female surfers and not just to me!
    Iam a more or less experienced surfer and about to head to Indo . As well as I am a passionated longboarder I feel forced to surf smaller boards. Its more the boys fault , because they havent got any sort of respect for the old fashioned planks .
    The problem here in the South West of Cornwall (St. Ives) is the majority of onshore , messy days. So it ‘s very hard to find longboardable waves…
    The girls writing has given me a smile and the excitment of going out to Bali and find perfect surf to cruise and flow along on all day.

    well done

    1


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