A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth

Dane Peterson and Belinda Peterson-Baggs recently travelled to Indonesia with aid supplies that are still much in demand nearly four years after the tsunami... Words: Belinda Peterson-Baggs Photos: Dane Peterson; Adam Kobayashi

Chris Brunt chats to west Penwith's prodigal son and professional journeyman Sam Bleakley about his thirst for adventure and love of longboarding. [All photos by Chris Brunt.]

During December 1970 and January 1971, my father, my brother Duncan and I designed the first Bonzer. It was the beginning of an amazing journey. Words: Malcolm Campbell. Photos: Miguel Barreira

A tale of surfing reefs in South Africa, but not knowing what you get yourself into. Drift contributor Tim Conibear points a finger at localism and finds three more pointing right back. Photos: Mike Reich

Big-wave riding is an awe-inspiring experience, but what happens when things go wrong? In an exclusive extract from his new book, Al Mennie explains what it's like to survive the mother of all wipeouts.


Chilca’s “new wave”

July 31, 2009 | Words By: Inka Waves

new-wave-at-chilcaThere was a big turnout last Saturday at a break in Chilca for a bodyboard competition billed as part of one global circuit or another.

The merchandising and blaring music and TV crews were a turn off, but the trip out was worth it because, supposedly, it’s a “newly discovered break”. Hard to get to and you basically need a four-wheel drive or a horse to get out to the break once you make it past miles of huge ovens where they cook bricks from dirt dug up from old seafloor. Apparently Peru’s military controls the hills behind the break, so for years people weren’t allowed in.
It’s a big, heavy wave, very fast, with a thick lip and Saturday, so far as I could tell, it couldn’t be surfed. The body boarders often were stuck in the foam as soon as they dropped in and couldn’t get over to a face that folded over quickly. Maybe on a smaller day. It looks and behaves like a beach break, but I think there is a reef near the shoreline that causes it to jack up quickly. There is a big slab of rock that sits in front of the break, and I couldn’t tell if it was part of a bigger mass extending into the water.


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