A sign on the 130-year-old pier at Saltburn-by-the-Sea warns people not to jump off it. On a big surf day surfers make their way to the end of the sturdy 206 metre structure and jump like lemmings into the cold, murky North Sea. Words: Simon Palmer Photos: Ian Forsyth

Chris Burkard's photographs are about more than barrels, perfect point breaks, and carving radical lines – they capture a moment in which the surfer is a mere player and the real star is the scenery. Words: Dan Hamlin Photos: Chris Burkard

During December 1970 and January 1971, my father, my brother Duncan and I designed the first Bonzer. It was the beginning of an amazing journey. Words: Malcolm Campbell. Photos: Miguel Barreira

Devastated by more than a decade of civil war, the Republic of Liberia is still in a serious state of flux. Could surfing bring a new hope and more peaceful future to this West African nation? Words & photos: Nicholai Lidow & Kate Thomas. Additional photos: Ted Grambeau & Jamie Bott

Portugal explodes onto the global big wave circuit with a handful of household names and a freakish wave canyon. Photos: Jorge Leal and Wilson Ribeiro.

Quietly considered and eloquent, you might know of Nathan Oldfield through his films 'Lines From A Poem' and 'Seaworthy'. Surf Screen's Christiaan Bailey popped him a few duly thoughtful questions about creative motivations and the surf film industry. Photos: Nathan Oldfield

eye on the prize

July 22, 2009 | Words By: Rich

eye-on-the-prize-openerWe’ve all spent moments staring out to sea, and even if you don’t frequent the big blue for adventures I’m sure you have caressed the horizon for answers. No? Well, you’re a tough crowd!

I have been besotted with the sea ever since I remember treading the shores of a quaint seaside resort on the east coast. The bright neon lights of the arcades was a vegas lure to all, candy rock, risque postcards of big-busted women, and sea gulls circling like vultures for the loose chips or sadly lost ice cream cones littering the sea-front.

But I was always most intrigued by the fishermen, their vessels, the boats’ names, and would find myself mesmerised by the sea when the swell was running. It wasn’t until later in my life that I would depend on the fisherman, my swell report for the pre-internet generation. They would meet the swells firsthand, amid the chaos, and maybe the waves weren’t the gold for them that they were for me, but it was the news I waited for. And it would be precise. They would tell me the day and it was always on point.

photo by friend of mineA fresh catch for me was not necessarily a point of interest to them. I have moments of almost-reasoning with myself about this imbalance to this day.

I revolve my life around the sea and I think nature is one of the few areas where it is ok to stare, soak it up and take note of what is going on around you. To be in that place, at that moment, is pretty amazing. The swell has travelled so far and you are there for its final moments. Not in a sad way, in a joyous way. And you get to do it over and over, but every time it is unique; never to be recaptured. Fleeting fun.

I live in north Cornwall and have spent most of my life sitting pretty by the sea. I make music, take photos, write blogs and tend to keep myself just on the top left corner outside the box.

I have a Derek Hynd approach to surfing (ride everything), and ‘he who shares wins’ is a motto I try to stick to every time I surf. I’m always up for an adventure and you can find me frequenting establishments that serve quality tea.

muchos aloha

     

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