By 1985 the surfing world has settled on thrusters and things have only moved in millimetres since then
“I’m most intrigued by the period of surfboard design from 1978 to 1983 – the innovation period or ‘T2,’ short for the second transition period. The first transition period was when surfboards went from 10′ in length to 6′ and below. The second transition period is when surf board shapes went from single fins, to twins, to thrusters and beyond. Others call it the innovation period because through the 70s surfboard design, with a few notable exceptions, was pretty static, just flat bottom single fin pin tails. Then there was a brief period of experimentation when twin fins took hold and guys were trying channel bottoms, tear drop designs, three fins, four fins, five fins! By 1985 the surfing world has settled on thrusters and things have only moved in millimetres since then until the recent ‘ride anything’ movement came along.”
“We have approximately 200 boards in the collection from this period. The only rule I have is that I have to ride them to learn about them, otherwise I’m just hoarding them.”
Fern is the artist and mastermind behind the book ‘Aloha to Zen’ a self-confessed “mind-altering surf trip around the globe, discovering insightful drawings, notes and scribbles that reveal a mass of surfing’s curiosities – from visionary surfboard designs and philosophical post-surf ponderings, to the elements required for effective permaculture and tips on fruitful board collecting” It certainly is an eclectic mix which is not only entertaining, it’s also hugely educational and makes for a fascinating read for young and old alike.
It is impossible not to be drawn in by the wonderfully sketched scenarios that unfold in front of you; the result is page after page of intriguing design that offers something new and insightful on every visit. A fantastic collection of pencil sketches that takes you on a journey through life and surf culture.
The couple escaped the Bondi madness to spend a few years in Southern California, in the beautiful beach town of Encinitas south of LA, spiritual home of yoga and the Swami’s point break and a short drive to the reefs of La Jolla and the beach break barrels at Blacks in San Diego. Aloha to Zen is a combined collection of references and recollections from their travels around Australia, New Zealand, Indonesia, and in the USA in California and Hawaii.
“The whole project is a culmination of our combined passions and experiences. We are aiming to express all the things we love about surfing and living on earth.” Fern told Drift.
Want to find out more or to get your own copy of Aloha to Zen then visit the website here